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Check out the Shoes Featured in The Video:
Tenaya: https://bit.ly/347L9du
La Sportiva: https://bit.ly/39IgYL4
Scarpa: https://bit.ly/344TDlK
Red Chilli: https://bit.ly/39Hi3CQ
Wild Climb: https://bit.ly/39Hi0qN
Understanding which type of rubber suits your style of climbing is essential knowledge for buying the correct shoe. Today we go through the different types of Vibram sole and look at how the design of different climbing shoes effects how the rubber behaves.
Watch the Resoling video: http://bit.ly/2S4iNLO
Why Understanding Climbing Rubber Is SO Important | Climbing Daily Ep.1639
vibram xs edge vs grip 2 주제에 대한 자세한 내용은 여기를 참조하세요.
What’s the best rubber for your rock shoes? – Gripped Magazine
Vibram – XS Grip 2: Manufactured by the industry’s leading rubber … Heavier climbers may find that the edge does not last long on …
Source: gripped.com
Date Published: 2/25/2021
View: 3758
Vibram XS Grip vs. Grip2 : r/climbing – Reddit
Edge IMO isn’t sticky on most things inse, but outse I prefer it. AFAIK all high-end la sportiva shoes have used grip 2.
Source: www.reddit.com
Date Published: 4/12/2022
View: 7753
Which rubber is the best? – Rubber Room – Resole
All the rubber we use is factory spec, high performance sticky rubber. For your resole we can use Vibram XS EDGE, Vibram XS Grip 2, …
Source: www.rubberroomresoles.com
Date Published: 1/22/2022
View: 7538
Compounds | Vibram EU
Excellent grip on smooth. Performs on any climbing surface. XS Grip 2. Competition climbing rubber. Superior pure grip. Best for overhanging routes. XS Edge.
Source: eu.vibram.com
Date Published: 9/17/2022
View: 5456
XS Edge vs XS Grip – Mountain Project
I prefer Euro-made shoes (Mammut, Sportiva, SCARPA) which all use the same 2 types of rubber: Vibram XS grip or XS Edge.
Source: www.mountainproject.com
Date Published: 10/7/2021
View: 7298
Rubber Compounds – Ontario Resoles
+ Vibram XS Grip 2 — soft but precise, excellent on steep terrain … Harder rubbers (Stealth C4, XS Edge) tend to prove better grip on very small …
Source: www.ontarioresoles.ca
Date Published: 2/29/2022
View: 6598
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주제에 대한 기사 평가 vibram xs edge vs grip 2
- Author: EpicTV Climbing Daily
- Views: 조회수 64,599회
- Likes: 좋아요 1,145개
- Date Published: 2020. 4. 3.
- Video Url link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BObAM62PPAA
What’s the best rubber for your rock shoes?
There is a whole world of climbing shoes out there, but what are you getting for your money?
Below we look at the most common rubbers you’ll find on the market these days and what they can do for your performance.
The Soft Compounds:
It’s bouldering season. If you’re looking to stick, then look no further. Though most frequently used on boulder problems, many rope climbers have picked up a pair of soft shoes and decided that sensitivity is the best way to reach the top.
Stealth – Mi6: Literally designed to smear on glass, Mi6 is categorically the stickiest rubber on the market. Unfortunately, the rubber is so soft that even a light climber will burn through it quickly. Regardless, pasty smears and overhung climbing make the lack of durability worth every penny. Found on the Five Ten VXi and Anasazi Pro, this rubber excels on overhung, pocketed limestone and is destroyed by granite.
Literally designed to smear on glass, Mi6 is categorically the stickiest rubber on the market. Unfortunately, the rubber is so soft that even a light climber will burn through it quickly. Regardless, pasty smears and overhung climbing make the lack of durability worth every penny. Found on the Five Ten VXi and Anasazi Pro, this rubber excels on overhung, pocketed limestone and is destroyed by granite. Unparallel – VD: Designed by a small start up in California, this exceptionally sticky rubber compound is soft, allowing for the most sensitive of foot placements. This rubber is featured on the Leopard and will only be useful to advanced climbers. Similar to Stealth rubbers, it will excel on sandstone and granite.
Designed by a small start up in California, this exceptionally sticky rubber compound is soft, allowing for the most sensitive of foot placements. This rubber is featured on the Leopard and will only be useful to advanced climbers. Similar to Stealth rubbers, it will excel on sandstone and granite. Stealth – HF : This rubber has been around for over a decade and was almost removed from the line in 2017. Fortunately, the newly redesigned 5.10 Dragon features this high performance compound and is the second stickiest sole available. HF might be the best rubber on the market for bouldering, though competition climbers may find its lack of versatility frustrating on slabs. It wears quickly, but if climbed on with “quiet feet”, can last an easy six months. When considering bouldering shoes for sandstone climbing, look no further. If used on granite, it will work wonderfully right up until the sole rips through from the macro-texture.
: This rubber has been around for over a decade and was almost removed from the line in 2017. Fortunately, the newly redesigned 5.10 Dragon features this high performance compound and is the second stickiest sole available. HF might be the best rubber on the market for bouldering, though competition climbers may find its lack of versatility frustrating on slabs. It wears quickly, but if climbed on with “quiet feet”, can last an easy six months. When considering bouldering shoes for sandstone climbing, look no further. If used on granite, it will work wonderfully right up until the sole rips through from the macro-texture. Black Diamond – Fuse: One of the most exciting new compounds on the market, Black Diamond’s “Fuse” compound manages to bring a stiffness and sensitivity that is perhaps the best compromise in the range. The hollowed out front sole of the shoe allows the climber to pull hard with their feet, while the built up rand allows for superior edging. This sort of sole excels on limestone climbing, where the outside edge of a shoe is rewarded most.
The Semi – Stiff Compounds:
Bouldering? Ropes? How about both! This compound is made for the all around climber on a variety of rock types.
Vibram – XS Grip 2: Manufactured by the industry’s leading rubber manufacturer, Vibram’s XS Grip 2 is one of the most popular compounds on sale today. Found on shoes like the La Sportiva Solution, the Scarpa Drago, and the Scarpa Furia Air, its versatility is difficult to match. Not quite making the cut as a soft rubber, this sticky compound offers a nice balance between edging and overhung-climbing performance. It should be noted that the softest shoes in the Scarpa and La Sportiva ranges use this rubber. This rubber is an all rounder that excels on friction dependent sandstone smears and edges.
Manufactured by the industry’s leading rubber manufacturer, Vibram’s XS Grip 2 is one of the most popular compounds on sale today. Found on shoes like the La Sportiva Solution, the Scarpa Drago, and the Scarpa Furia Air, its versatility is difficult to match. Not quite making the cut as a soft rubber, this sticky compound offers a nice balance between edging and overhung-climbing performance. It should be noted that the softest shoes in the Scarpa and La Sportiva ranges use this rubber. This rubber is an all rounder that excels on friction dependent sandstone smears and edges. Stealth – C4: Marketed as Five Ten’s most versatile rubber, it is found on everything from the Anasazi Blancos to the brand new Five Ten Aleon. This rubber is what made Five Ten famous and is considered the main competition to Vibram’s XS Grip 2. It is stickier but less durable than Grip 2, but is found on bouldering and big wall shoes alike. Heavier climbers may find that the edge does not last long on exceptionally small feet (4mm or less), but the stickiness of the rubber makes up for this lack of durability. If climbing on sandstone or granite, the C4 will stick.
Marketed as Five Ten’s most versatile rubber, it is found on everything from the Anasazi Blancos to the brand new Five Ten Aleon. This rubber is what made Five Ten famous and is considered the main competition to Vibram’s XS Grip 2. It is stickier but less durable than Grip 2, but is found on bouldering and big wall shoes alike. Heavier climbers may find that the edge does not last long on exceptionally small feet (4mm or less), but the stickiness of the rubber makes up for this lack of durability. If climbing on sandstone or granite, the C4 will stick. Vibram – XS Grip: Vibram XS Grip rubber is a sticky compound on the stiffer side of the spectrum. Found on many Tenaya shoes, climbers like Jimmy Webb, Alex Megos, and Chris Sharma have taken a liking to the combination of stick and stiffness that goes into this classic sole. The density and stickiness of this rubber makes it versatile for all rock types, though it is weak at toeing in.
Vibram XS Grip rubber is a sticky compound on the stiffer side of the spectrum. Found on many Tenaya shoes, climbers like Jimmy Webb, Alex Megos, and Chris Sharma have taken a liking to the combination of stick and stiffness that goes into this classic sole. The density and stickiness of this rubber makes it versatile for all rock types, though it is weak at toeing in. TRAX – SAS: Perhaps the best blend of stickiness and durability, this rubber lasts much longer than C4 or XS Grip 2, making it a good choice for the money sensitive boot buyer. That said, it does not stick as well as XS Grip 2 nor C4, and the edge will roll if the climber is heavy and standing on a small edge. This rubber is best used inside.
Perhaps the best blend of stickiness and durability, this rubber lasts much longer than C4 or XS Grip 2, making it a good choice for the money sensitive boot buyer. That said, it does not stick as well as XS Grip 2 nor C4, and the edge will roll if the climber is heavy and standing on a small edge. This rubber is best used inside. Boreal – Zenith: This extremely sticky, medium stiffness rubber from Spain excels on smeary edges. Can be worn on the boulders one day and ropes the next, and competes about as well as Vibram XS Grip in terms of stickiness. Put this rubber on limestone sport climbs.
The Stiff Compounds:
Made for the hardest of the hard, stiff compounds do one thing: stand. If you are a face climber that cannot get enough of tiny holds, and delicate balances, this is the rubber for you. If you boulder hard and like to crush the footholds beneath your feet, this may also be the rubber for you.
Which rubber is the best?
All the rubber we use is factory spec, high performance sticky rubber. For your resole we can use Vibram XS EDGE, Vibram XS Grip 2, 5.10 Stealth Onyx, 5.10 Stealth HF (High Friction). The choice is yours.
We also can resole your La Sportiva “NO EDGE Technology” shoes.
Vibram XS EDGE: This rubber compound is exceptionally resistant to deformation on razor sharp edges and it will not creep when smearing.
Vibram XS Grip2: The XS-Grip 2 is a rubber compound with superior grip, perfect for overhanging climbing routes.
5.10 Stealth ONYXX: ONYXX has a hardness-to-friction ratio that cannot be beat for precision edging and exceptional durability.
5.10 Stealth HF: With the advancement of boulder and sport climbing, Stealth HF has helped unlock the steepest of climbs by conforming to even the smallest edges and crystals, allowing athletes to pull with their feet.
Approach shoe soles: We hand groove 5.10 Stealth rubber into a Diamond patterned sole.
Compounds
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XS Edge vs XS Grip
Original Post
ClimberRunner · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25 Nov 9, 2012 · Redmond, WA I prefer Euro-made shoes (Mammut, Sportiva, SCARPA) which all use the same 2 types of rubber: Vibram XS grip or XS Edge.
Beyond the obvious idea that one is “edgier” and one is “gripper” does anyone have some wisdom comparing the types of rubber, and when to choose one or the other?I noticed some shoes are actually available with either option for the sole.
I don’t really want to hear suggestions for other types of shoe rubber, thanks though.
S. Neoh · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35 Nov 9, 2012 · Unknown Hometown I have Katana Lace which has XS Edge and I also have Vapor V which has XS Grip2. Grip2 is definitely stickier and softer than XS Edge. Right now I am debating whether to resole the Katana Lace with XS Edge or move to XS Grip 2. Not many resolers offer XS Grip 2 so that complicates my picture too.
XS Edge defintely holds its edge in 80+F heat. I do not have experience with Grip2 at elevated temperatures so I can’t say it deteriorates significantly or not.
Chris Graham · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 510 Nov 9, 2012 · Bartlett, NH XS Grip 2 is a much better rubber in my opinion. I have the xs edge on my TC Pros and hate it. Selling the TC Pros this week.
Rubber Compounds — Ontario Resoles
So which rubber is best? …all of them, but for different situations.
Before choosing a rubber, we recommend considering how each of the following points will affect your climbing:
Softer rubbers (e.g. Unparallel RS, XS Grip 2, XS Grip) tend to provide better grip on overhanging terrain, slopers, and slippery holds or slippery rock.
Harder rubbers (Stealth C4, XS Edge) tend to provide better grip on very small footholds and edges, especially on vertical terrain. They also tend to provide more durability.
Thinner rubbers will provide more sensitivity, and excel on overhangs and slopers, but will come with a loss of durability.
Thicker rubbers will provide more stiffness, and help with edgeing on vertical terrain with small footholds and edges. They will offer more durability than their thinner counterparts
Light climbers should generally aim for softer rubbers and avoid 5.0 mm thicknesses, while heavier climbers should consider the harder compounds and medium to high thickness.
A note on sensitivity and stiffness:
Shoes with a very stiff midsole and structure will not see the same sensitivity change from different sole thicknesses or compounds. For example, putting a 4.0 mm sole on a pair of La Sportiva Tarantulas (originally 5.0 mm) would have an undramatic effect on sensitivity because the shoes have a very stiff midsole, so the total stiffness of the shoe is not as heavily dependent on the sole. However, a soft shoe like a Python or a Moccasym will be heavily affected by sole thickness and compound, because the sole is the main contributor to stiffness.
If you are still unsure, please reach out! We love helping you get the most out of your shoes.
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